The Paris-Shanghai Perfume Show marked the first major collective appearance of Chinese fragrance brands in France. With LVMH and Estee Lauder backing brands like To Summer and Melt Season, the ambition is real. So is the challenge.

Walking the halls of Cosmoprof Bologna 2026, the shift was unmistakable: Chinese beauty brands are no longer just exhibiting, they are competing. But K-beauty still leads the conversation. Meanwhile, European niche brands looking at China face a market that has fundamentally changed.

In China, a serum wins by listing its niacinamide concentration and clinical trial data. In Europe, the same product wins by being COSMOS-certified and paraben-free. This fundamental divide in how consumers evaluate skincare is creating real strategic challenges for brands operating across both markets.

When Into You launched its first lip mud in 2020, it was solving a texture problem no one else had addressed: how to deliver a velvet-matte finish without the dryness. Five years and 80 million fans later, the Shanghai brand is available in over 40 countries and rewriting how the world thinks about lip color. But can a category creator sustain its edge as competitors crowd in?

L’Oréal’s minority investment in LAN marks a strategic shift from acquisition to partnership in China’s beauty market. Beyond the brand itself, the deal reveals how global beauty giants are rethinking risk, localisation, and long-term growth in an increasingly fragmented and culturally specific consumer landscape.

China has yet to produce a retailer with the authority, bargaining power, and brand aggregation capabilities of Sephora, Space NK, or Ulta Beauty. The reasons are structural, historical, and deeply linked to how China’s beauty economy developed.

When discussing China’s new-generation beauty brands, 🌸Flower Knows (花知晓) stands out as one of the most distinctive success stories. Founded in 2016 by two post-90s male cosplay enthusiasts, the brand quickly rose to prominence with its dreamy, 少女心 (fairytale-girlish) packaging and pastel palettes.